Cruising ~ The Cat’s Meow Style ~
July
– December, 2011
An Adventure of a
Lifetime
Welcome back!! We hope you
will enjoy finding out what in the WORLD we were doing after having done so
much work on The Cat’s Meow.
Well………we decided it was
time to take a break from the boat, from the water, from the life we had been
living, and to do something totally different.
We had met Colin Garland
during the winter of 2010, when he did a photo & video presentation at the
Porto Bello restaurant in Puerto Escondido. After the great photos of whales in
the Sea of Cortez (right in our backyard, actually), Colin showed photos and a
video from his work and adventures in the country of South Africa. He has been
spending the months of June, July, and August doing research in the Kruger
National Park, and later in August he often takes people on safari for two
weeks. Both of us were very interested in the Africa trip, so we spoke with
Colin after the presentation and decided right then that we could not
miss this opportunity! This was just too good to pass-up. So, we saved our
nickels and dimes and made the plan to go to South Africa during August of
2011. What a good idea that was!!!!
In early August, we flew
from the Baja to NYCity. We had two nights there, so we enjoyed taking the
Metro downtown, walking along the busy streets, just being tourist in “the big
city”. We ate a pretzel with mustard from one of the street vendors; we went to
the Grand Central station terminal; we ate New York pizza…we had a good time.
However, instead of flying out of JFK at 8:30 a.m. as planned, our flight was
delayed until 8:30 P.M. (!!) so we spent the entire day at the airport….not a
good beginning. Finally aboard South African Air, we had a very good flight
with good food, movies, and great staff aboard.
Eating a pretzel on the streets of New York Grand
Central Terminal
What else can you do while waiting
at JFK allllll day……???
When we arrived in Johannesburg, Colin and his assistant Cathy met
us and sped us off to a friend’s home in Pretoriaskop for the first night.
Early the next day, we departed for our two-week safari adventure.
Outside the Park: a good place to buy great fruit First thing seen, inside the Park
Ken, a boater we met in
Puerto Escondido, also was in our group, and since we all knew Colin and Cathy,
this trip was even easier and nicer than most could have been. We were a party
of three with two guides – what a deal!!
Cathy,
Colin, Robin, Martin, and Ken in country
While one can stay in
different types of lodging within the park ~ permanent tents, rondells,
“chalets” ~ but we went the “cheap route” and we slept in a small tent for our
two weeks in the park. It was quite nice ~ we could hear the animals just
outside the fence of each of the five compounds we stayed in (the electrified
fence that protects the animals from the people), and we could see the stars.
Colin has a van that he uses when university students are doing their
internship with him and to drive his other clients (like us) around the Park.
He gets the van to the gate in the wee dark hours of the morning, trying to be
the first car in line to leave the compound and into the park each morning,
while the rest of us struggle to wake up and dress and make some hot coffee or
hot chocolate and wander to the van so we can depart at six o’clock sharp, when
the gate is opened. Note: while August is nice and warm, or hot, in the US of
A, it is winter in South Africa! We were wearing up to five layers of clothing
every morning, hoping to be able to peal some off during the daytime.
How we spent most of our days while in the Kruger Park Typical night scene, tents to each side of the van
Each day we drove through
different parts of the Kruger Park, looking for animals. Since Colin and Cathy
had been there since June, they knew where the animals were, what they liked to
do, who had babies, etc. What a wealth of information!!! And, within the first
half-day of being in the Park, we saw the Big Five: elephant, lion, cape
buffalo, rhinoceros, and leopard!! Awesome.
The “Big Five”:
African elephant(s) Rhinoceros
Cape buffalo Leopard
Being with Colin & Cathy
made it a wonderous time in the Kruger. They could spot an animal where we only
saw brush. Colin would lean out of the van (absolutely NO leaving the vehicle
is permitted on the roads in the Park!!) and read the prints left by the animals
in the dirt of the road. We saw sooo many things, such as the cheetah in the
tree, the herd of at least 2,000 cape buffalo stampeding to the waterhole, the
leopard mother teaching her cub to get into the tree for the kill she had
stored there, the herd of stampeding elephants, fighting elephants, and on and
on…..
Mr. Kudu Cape buffalo stampede to waterhole
Black rhino Young giraffe
Lilac
breasted roller Pastoral scene in the Bush
Out in the Bush Bushwalk guides
Mating pair
of lions Cheetah in the tree, scoping out the area for
game
Two zebras Three young cheetahs
Baby wild
dogs Mama leopard and cub
While it is impossible here
to demonstrate all that we saw and all that we did in the Kruger Park, we tell
you that it was definitely a grand time!
South African sunset
After our two weeks in the
park, we all flew to Cape Town and then drove to a small town called Hermanus,
known for “the best land-based whale watching in the world”. From our condo, we
saw right whales frolicking in the water just across the street!!! Cape Town
and Hermanus are at the southern tip of South Africa, where the Atlantic and
the Indian oceans meet. Weather is a factor. One day, we had balmy sunny
weather, the next day it was blowing 42 knots of very cold wind + rain.
Old whaling station in Hermanus
View from our balcony one day…… …view from our balcony the next day
To a person, everyone we met
while in South Africa was friendly, and helpful. It was quite interesting to
listen to people ~ including on TV shows! ~ speaking Africans, which is
a mix of Dutch, English, and tribal languages. South Africa is obviously going
through huge changes in their social and economic structures, which can and
does involve struggles between races; and there is an obvious difference
between those that have and those that do not have much.
Township
outside of Cape Town
Ken, Colin, and Cathy all
left South Africa after our stay at Hermanus. The two of us rented a car and
just decided where to go and what to do for the next 11 days. We drove through
the wine country, saw the wildflower bloom, went through a cave, and explored
some of the coastline.
Driving
(notice where we are on the road) near the wine country Wildflowers in bloom
Martin & Robin with Mark, of the Dung Beetle Bar in Barrydale Robin enjoyed the hot springs
Hiking in
the Tsitsikama Park
We found great places to
stay ~ we stayed two or three nights at each location ~ most of which were
separate cabins with wonderful views and great appointments, averaging us about
$45US per night. Not bad!!
Mtn. Resort near the Cango Caves View from our bungalow near Knysna
Our little chalet in Wilderness (note the fire in the fireplace!
Brrrr!)
Although we are not fans of
many “typical tourist venues”, many of the locals suggested we go see
Monkeyland and Birdland. And….we are so very glad we did!! Both of these parks
are natural vegetation covered with netting, both are of many hectares (a
hectare is larger than an acre), and both allow the visitor to walk among the
monkeys and the birds ~ no cages. These places were impressive.
In Monkeyland, we walked among the ring-tailed lemurs… …and among the birds in Birdland (that parakeet is lovin’ on Martin)
Knysna
Lourie
We spent
one more day and night in Cape Town before departing for the USA. It was fun to find the South African Market,
where all sorts of wares were for sale, and that night we found some great
African music being played in a very cool restaurant/bar. A great way to end
our trip of a lifetime…..and, the last nights’ lodging came with a ………..cat!!!
African Marketplace in Cape Town Cooool place with great African jazz
Our
very own cat for the night!
Our South African adventure
took about five weeks total, and during that entire time our cats – Toes and Squeak
– were at our friend Pat’s home in La Paz. It was the hottest part of the
summer in the Baja. Pat and Lisa (who was staying there as well) took very good
care of our furry family members, and we will always be so grateful for that.
Believe it or not, there are
still a few months left in 2011 ~ but, since we have gone on for so long here,
we will come back for a short one next time………Cruising ~ The Cat’s Meow
Style!